Efficient: You should efficiently use your gear and time when constructing the anchor points and avoid creating something that will be overly complicated. In this case, observe the Keep It Stupid Simple (KISS) principle. In this scenario, as I approach the fixed anchor where I want to build a top rope anchor, I clip in with PAS to mitigate the risk of falling off the edge. Then I build my anchor, rig an extended rappel on my tether, and descend. Cleaning Anchors in the Sport Climbing Context

Additionally, multiple rappels may be required to reach the ground in multi-pitch climbing. In that scenario, you can use your personal anchor system to connect directly to each rappel anchor as you descend downwards. When we climb on a rope, we often climb at or beyond our limit (unlike lead climbing for example). To that end, when we rig a bottom-rope or top-rope system we rig it knowing that it will very likely be tested and loaded. With this in mind get into a habit of working on a ‘belt and braces’ basis. Whenever you have to wrap an uncertain amount of rope around a a fixed object such as a boulder or a tree, with a bowline you can simply tie the knot exactly where you want it. This is far easier than retying a figure of eight or overhand knot which may have to be adjusted to be in the right place. Two things about the bowline … First, you must be sure to get it right. It’s easily got wrong and an error is not easily recognised. Secondly, unless you’re a sailor, you must dress it with a stopper knot to make it safe. 3. The Clove-hitch Note that it doesn’t matter if you are a top climber or lead the climb, but you need to understand how to create the best rope anchor as your first skill.The official handbook of the Mountain Instructor and Single Pitch Award schemes, and the ideal reference tool for every climber. Written by Libby Peter and published by Mountain Leader Training UK.

However, you can also make your own PAS. You can build a PAS with nylon or Dyneema sewn slings. The advantage of this is that the sling can be used for other purposes while you’re not using it as a PAS, like for building anchors or extending trad gear placements. Criteria to Consider for DIY Personal Anchor Systems Elaborate testing has been conducted on equalization, extension, and the various compromises between. The equalette and the quad have both gained followings in various applications.I want to share four safety considerations regarding employing personal anchor systems in your climbing.

Understanding how to evaluate your anchor is an essential step in anchor building. This is where you catch mistakes before they become a problem. Here we’ll show you the EARNEST method, but there are plenty of other acronyms out there that climbers use to evaluate their anchors. Beverly, M., Attaway, S., Scherzinger, B., Wilson, S., Modisette, D. R., & Miller, M. (2005). Multi-point Pre-Equalized Anchoring Systems. ( 2) The best anchor system is one you understand how to apply well. So keep it simple, get bomber placements, and plan ahead. With practice, it will become like second nature. E: Equalized: Make sure that the legs of your anchor are equalized and that the masterpoint is equalized to the direction of the climb. Don’t equalize your anchors by pulling up or out from the wall; instead, pull down towards the direction of the climb to ensure the anchor is properly equalized. As is so often the answer in trad climbing, you assess your situation and manage your risks. If you just finished a pitch that’s straight up (a constant direction of pull), a simple cordelette overhand may be most efficient.Finally, and what should be of key interest to climbers and climbing wall operators alike, is the climber interaction-point, the clip. The recommended carabiner for the anchor is DMM's Alpha Steel snap-link, which combines a super-durable carabiner with the smooth clipping action of DMM's flagship sport-climbing krab. Whatever the choice of carabiner, the key feature of the STAL system is the user-replaceable nature of the final point, making STAL the most cost-effective anchor available.

The tree’s base is the most vital point; therefore, you need to circle the runner around the base and clip its end using a carabiner. While at it, ensure that the slings form an angle less than 60 degrees after the master connection. First you insert the anchor into the drill hole, then you drive in the expansion pin with the hammer. This requires some skill, as you must not hit the anchor tab during this process. To drive in the anchors, you insert the anchor tab and nut. By tightening the latter you achieve the spreading effect. Typically, the top-rope climbing anchors are built to hold the downward pull. Therefore, multidirectional anchors are the best choice; they tend to handle a pull from all directions.It’s yet another factor that helps in anchor considerations. The slings’ length and the anchor points that connect the points are paramount for a reliable climbing anchor. for a reliable climbing anchor