For less money, the B+W 43mm 010 is an excellent filter, as are the multicoated version and the basic multicoated Hoya filters, but the Hoya HD3 is the toughest and the best. Filters last a lifetime, so you may as well get the best. The Hoya HD3 stays cleaner than the others since it repels oil and dirt. As always, I believe that all of the modern cameras and lens have good enough quality and to talk about it would be boring and redundant. So for my Fuji 35mm f2 review to be complete here’s full size samples to play around, both RAW and Full Size JPGs. Please draw your own conclusions, as my review philosophy is always based on making images 🙂 Fujifilm cameras typically bake in a lens profile correction in the RAW files that fixes distortion. In Lightroom you cannot turn this off. It comes supplied with a lightweight and compact circular lens hood that screws into the front of the lens

So what about that magic! – Does it retain just some of what makes the XF 35mm such a special lens for so many people? – From my limited time with the lens I would say yes. Give this lens golden color light and you will get some of the most rich and vibrant images possible, just as the XF 35mm f/1.4 gives you. The smoothness of the OOF areas is much improved, and I actually prefer the 35mm f/2 bokeh to that of the 35mm f/1.4. Add to that improved portability, weather resistance, as well as much faster focussing, and I will not hesitate to call this lens a new favourite of mine. Samples The aperture range is perfect to handle low light situations, and since the Fujis have large sensors, they are fine at higher ISOs, making this a good choice for night photography. Full size samples Full size samples Fuji's focus system is closed-loop, read directly from the image sensor, so it automatically compensates for any mechanical errors.The images below are showing the bottom left corner of a topo map. Shooting wide open at f/2, the corners and edges are soft. By f/4, things get a little better, and by f/5.6 the softness is relegated to the extreme corners. The centers are very sharp here and that sharpness works its way all the way out to the edges of the image. Since it is only the extreme corners that appear soft, I assume this might have something to do with the built in lens profile that corrects for vignetting. Other standout highlights include an iris diaphragm with nine rounded blades, a stepping motor autofocus system with an internal focusing design, and an optical formula that comprises 9 elements in 6 groups, including 2 aspherical elements. If you want shallow depth of field, there is little difference between f/1.4 and f/2. For shallower depth of field, use a longer lens like a 50mm or longer, not a 35mm lens. Distortion was well controlled on the older XF 35mm f/1.4 R, so how does it compare on this newer lens? Whereas the older 35mm f/1.4 is prone to producing modest barrel distortion, this lens produces a negligible amount of pincushion distortion. This was corrected for in JPEG files thanks to the X-T10’s effective in-camera processing. Though it’s not immediately obvious in real-world raw files, users will want to correct for it by applying the relevant lens profile in the future. Fujinon XF 35mm f/2 R WR Review – Test Results Resolution It’s tough to test for vignetting with Fujinon lenses since the RAW files and jpegs are processed with a built in lens profile that removes it. I’ve read that you can remove these profiles with editors like Iridient Developer. As a photographer that is already using Lightroom and Capture One, I’m going to pass on a third piece of software and just live with the built in corrections. Autofocus

If you've used Fujifilm X Mount Lenses, or Fujifilm Camera Bodies for that matter, then you know that a high quality finish is guaranteed. This lens is no exception to that continued quality. The AF+MF switch on the lens enables seamless manual focusing. Half depress the shutter to autofocus on the subject and then fine adjustments can then be made using the manual focus ring. Versatile and Flexible f/1.4 isn't important for digital, where crazy high ISOs let us shoot with pretty much any lens in any light. f/1.4 was important in the days when ISO 800 literally was pushing it with Tri-X, but today f/2 is more than fast enough to shoot hand-held outdoors at night with digital.The Fujifilm XF 35mm f/2 has no image stabilization and neither does my Fuji X-T3. I was a little spoiled by the IBIS in my Sony A7rii and A7riii, but I’m still very happy with my handheld and low light shots using this lens and system.